Convert HEIF to RAW Online & Free
Effortlessly convert HEIF to RAW with our fast, secure, and free online tool—no installs, no sign-ups; this HEIF to RAW converter preserves detail and color accuracy for professional editing, supports batch processing, and ensures your files remain private and safe while delivering high-quality results in seconds.
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More HEIF Conversion Tools
Looking to do more than our HEIF to RAW converter? Explore our other tools to switch HEIF into JPG, PNG, WEBP, and beyond—fast, free, and with great quality.
Convert HEIF images to GIFs fast and hassle-free.
Convert HEIF to GIF HEIF ➜ HEICConvert HEIF to HEIC in seconds—fast, easy, and lossless.
Convert HEIF to HEIC HEIF ➜ JPEGConvert HEIF to JPEG fast and easy, with great quality.
Convert HEIF to JPEG HEIF ➜ JPGConvert HEIF images to JPG in seconds—fast, simple, and high quality.
Convert HEIF to JPG HEIF ➜ MP4Convert HEIF images to MP4 in seconds—fast, easy, and high quality.
Convert HEIF to MP4 HEIF ➜ PDFConvert HEIF images to PDF fast, easy, and with perfect quality.
Convert HEIF to PDF HEIF ➜ PNGConvert HEIF to PNG fast, easy, and with no quality loss.
Convert HEIF to PNG HEIF ➜ TEXTConvert HEIF to TEXT instantly—fast, simple, and lossless.
Convert HEIF to TEXT HEIF ➜ TIFFConvert HEIF to TIFF fast, easy, and without quality loss.
Convert HEIF to TIFF HEIF ➜ WEBPConvert HEIF to WEBP fast, easy, and with great quality.
Convert HEIF to WEBPFrequently Asked Questions About Converting HEIF to RAW
Find quick answers to common questions about converting HEIF to RAW. Learn what to expect, how to keep quality, supported tools, and simple steps to get the best results. If you need more help, our tips and guides are here for you.
What is the difference between HEIF and RAW files
HEIF (High Efficiency Image File) is a compressed image format that uses modern codecs (like HEVC) to deliver high quality at much smaller file sizes than JPEG. It supports features such as multiple images per file, transparency, and depth data, making it efficient for storage and sharing while maintaining good visual fidelity.
RAW files contain minimally processed sensor data straight from the camera, preserving maximum dynamic range, color information, and detail. They require specialized software for development and editing, and produce larger files, but offer far greater flexibility for adjustments like exposure, white balance, and noise reduction without degrading image quality.
In short: choose HEIF for compact, ready-to-use images optimized for viewing and sharing; choose RAW when you need the highest editing latitude and image quality for professional post-processing.
Will converting HEIF to RAW improve image quality
No. Converting a HEIF to a RAW file will not improve image quality. A RAW file contains the untouched sensor data captured at the time of shooting, while a HEIF is a processed, compressed format. Once an image is saved as HEIF, the original sensor information is lost; converting it to a RAW container cannot recreate that lost data or add detail, dynamic range, or latitude. You’ll simply get a larger file that looks the same as the HEIF.
Convert HEIF to formats like JPEG, PNG, or TIFF when you need wider compatibility or light editing. If you need maximum editing flexibility, shoot in RAW at capture time; otherwise, stick with HEIF or convert to a high-bit-depth TIFF to minimize additional quality loss during edits.
Which cameras and devices produce HEIF and which workflows benefit from RAW
Many modern devices create HEIF: most Apple iPhones and iPads (iOS 11+), recent macOS cameras and screenshots, newer Android phones (Android 9+ with HEIC/HEIF enabled), and some mirrorless/compact cameras from brands like Canon, Sony, and Nikon that support HEIF stills; these files offer smaller sizes with high quality thanks to HEVC compression and support features like 10‑bit color, HDR, and live photos. In contrast, RAW is produced by DSLRs, mirrorless cameras, and many phones’ Pro/Manual modes (e.g., Apple ProRAW, Android DNG) and is best for workflows that require maximum editing latitude: precise white balance changes, highlight/shadow recovery, color grading, and professional printing. Choose HEIF for everyday shooting, efficient storage, fast sharing, and quick edits; choose RAW for studio work, challenging lighting, advanced post-processing, and when future-proof flexibility outweighs file size and speed.
Are EXIF metadata and color profiles preserved when converting HEIF to RAW
Short answer: generally no. When converting from HEIF to a camera-RAW format, the original EXIF metadata and embedded color profiles are typically not preserved because RAW containers expect untouched sensor data and have different metadata structures. Most converters either drop these items or only copy a subset into sidecar files (e.g., XMP), which means you may lose camera settings, location, or color space info.
If you need to retain this information, choose an output that supports it—such as TIFF or JPEG—and ensure the converter is set to preserve EXIF and ICC profiles. For RAW-like workflows, consider exporting to DNG (with embedded profiles) or keep a sidecar metadata file; always verify the result by checking properties in an EXIF/ICC viewer after conversion.
What bit depth and color space will the resulting RAW file have
The resulting RAW file preserves the original sensor’s bit depth when possible (commonly 12‑bit or 14‑bit). If the source data doesn’t contain full sensor depth, the export will use the highest fidelity available without upsampling fake precision. This ensures the RAW maintains maximum dynamic range and grading latitude.
For color space, RAW files generally store data in a camera-native, scene‑referred space rather than a display‑referred profile like sRGB or Adobe RGB. That means the color interpretation is deferred to your RAW processor, which applies a profile or transform during development.
When metadata allows, the file includes tags to guide debayering and color interpretation, but the final look depends on your chosen editor and its profile. In short: expect native 12/14‑bit sensor data and a scene‑referred color space governed at edit time.
Can I batch convert multiple HEIF images to RAW and is there a file size limit
Yes, you can batch convert multiple HEIF images to RAW by selecting or dragging in several files at once. Keep in mind that converting HEIF (a compressed format) to RAW does not recreate original sensor data; it simply packages the image into a RAW-like container, which can increase size without adding detail.
As for limits, you can process multiple files up to the current per-file size limit and any total session limits enforced by your browser or system memory. If you hit an upload cap, split your batch into smaller groups or compress sources first; also ensure a stable connection for large sets.
How do I handle transparency or depth data from HEIF when exporting to RAW
HEIF images can include optional auxiliary data like alpha (transparency) and depth maps. Most RAW formats (DNG/CR2/NEF, etc.) don’t support these channels natively, so they’re usually lost if you convert directly to RAW. Decide first whether you need to preserve appearance (flatten transparency) or retain data (export sidecar files).
If you need visual fidelity, flatten the alpha onto a solid or checker background before exporting to RAW, or export to a high-bit TIFF/PNG that supports alpha, then create RAW only if required by your workflow. For depth, you can ignore it when exporting, or embed a depth-to-luma preview in a separate image for reference.
If you need the data itself, export alpha and depth as separate assets: save the color image as RAW (or TIFF), and write the alpha as a grayscale PNG/TIFF and the depth as a 16-bit PNG/TIFF or PFM. Keep consistent filenames (e.g., image.raw, image_alpha.png, image_depth.tiff) so editors or scripts can re-associate them later.
Is the conversion lossless and will the resulting RAW be compatible with Lightroom or Photoshop
The conversion is generally lossless when transforming HEIF/HEIC to formats that preserve original image data (e.g., 16‑bit TIFF or DNG), but converting to a proprietary RAW format from a non-RAW source is not truly lossless and won’t recreate sensor-level data; for best editing latitude in Lightroom or Photoshop, choose DNG or TIFF, both of which are widely compatible and maintain high fidelity, while formats like JPEG are lossy and reduce quality.